When downtown
Belfast was a marshland and thick woods, the area now known as the Shankill
was roamed by wolves and wild boar. The first Shankill residents lived
at the bottom of what is now known as Glencairn; a small settlement
of ancient people inhabiting a ring fort, where the Ballygomartin and
Forth rivers meet.
The Shankhill Road itself was an ancient track, the main link from County
Down to Antrim, known then as the Antrim Road , it was not until 1831
that the Shankhill Road was officially named. The word Shankhill being
derived from the Gaelic ( Sean Cill ) meaning Old Church.
The Shankill
Graveyard, which is over 1,500 years old, contains many historically
interesting graves as well as several artifacts which have been discovered
within the graveyard.
In 1855 the
Bullaun Stone was uncovered in the Shankill Graveyard, it is believed
this large stone dates back to Druid times, when it would have been
used in a ceremony for pagan sacrifices. In early Christian times, it
was used as a baptismal font when the original church stood in the grounds.
Today, local legend credits the stone with the ability to cure warts.
For centuries the Shankill graveyard was the main graveyard for the
Belfast district. The Shankhill Parish extended from Greencastle in
the North to Malone in the South. Its oldest existing gravestone dates
back to 1685 (many were destroyed in the late 1950's in a Belfast corporation
clean up). It
lost its status in 1869 when the city cemetery opened. Several graves
of interest include, 14 year old William Sterling, an RAF pilot, who's
grave is marked by a Commonwealth headstone, the headstone of a pirate
marked with a skull and crossbones, Rev. Isaac Nelson, a Presbyterian
clergyman who became Home Rule MP for Co. Mayo the Nelson Memorial Church
is named after him). Many other graves depict the harshness of life
faced by the first residents of the Shankhill, when plague and disease
wiped out whole families.
As Belfast grew in the late 19th Century, so did the Shankhill. Linen
production swept through the area between 1850's and 1870's. The original
linen mills had been water powered and were based in the hills surrounding
Belfast. Technological advance led to the development of steam powered
mills for flax spinning, which permitted lowland sites. By 1861, thirty-two
linen mills had been built, some were on the Crumlin, but the majority
were on the Shankhill and the Falls, by the banks of the Farset and
Forth rivers. Given this advancement of the linen industry within the
area, there was a growing need for more housing to accommodate the influx
of mill workers. These people had fled from a countryside which had
been ravaged by famine between 1845 and 1849 and which had seen the
cottage linen industry disappear. Hours were long, wages were low an
early starting time meant workers needed to be close at hand. From the
West of the Province, Catholic families poured into Belfast along the
Falls Road, the main route out of Belfast to the West, where as the
first Shankhill inhabitants came from the predominantly Protestant country
areas of County Antrim in the North. Well established Linen Lords such
as the Ewarts and the Andrews met this demand by building kitchen houses,
known as two up and two down. These had two upstairs bedrooms and one
downstairs room with a small kitchen area and shared outside toilet
facilities.
The mill houses may have been better than the rural hovels, but the
conditions for the first Shankhill residents were atrocious most houses
were condemned within 20 years of being built. However, the rate of
building could not keep pace with the influx of people. This, combined
with the low wages resulted in as many as three families living in one
house six to eight people would be found loving I one room alone. By
1890, much of the Shankhill had been built and housing was appearing
in the woodvale area. In 1892 the Woodvale park was opened. Its role
was to give the tightly packed community of the greater Shankill some
open space( most houses had no gardens) and an area in which to engage
in sports and other activities. Engineering and shipbuilding were the
industrial growth areas over the turn of the century. Most of Shankhill's
second generation found employment making linen machinery in Mackie's
Engineering Works or in the shipyards where many had a role in the construction
of the Titanic.
In the second
decade of the 20th Century, hundreds of Shankhill Road men joined the
old Ulster Volunteer Force, determined to resist Home Rule. During 1912,
Unionist objection to the 3rd Home Rule Bill translated into the signing
of The Covenant, a document stating the people's opposition to this
proposal. On 28th September, 471,414 people including 234,046 women,
signed the petition some in their own blood in over 500 venues across
Ulster. This day became known as Ulster Day and a mural depicting this
event can be seen on the Shankhill. With the beginning of the First
World War, the men of the old Ulster Volunteer Force joined the 36th
Ulster Division of the British Army as the West Belfast 9th Battalion
Royal Irish Rangers, and at 7.30am on 1st July 1916, they went over
the top of the trenches in the Battle of the Somme. Almost an entire
generation of Shankill men was killed, and tragedy touched virtually
every household. Out of the 760 men who fought in the regiment, only
76 returned.
Unemployment grew dramatically in the Great Depression of the 30's.
No welfare benefits existed and to combat this the Government introduced
Outdoor Relief. The result of this was degrading work and means testing.
In October 1932, for the first and only time, the people of the Shankhill
and the Falls fought together in opposition to the Stormont Government
during the Hunger Riots. The Shankill did not escape loss on World War
Two. Many men lost their lives on foreign battlefields and in 1941,
over 100 people died in the Woodvale and in Percy Street during the
nigh raids of the Luftwaffe.
Industries such
as linen and textiles, shipbuilding and engineering were in serious
decline by the 1960's and as a result unemployment began to grow. Redevelopment
of the area and the start of the Troubles followed. In the ensuing years,
the Shankhill population dropped from 76,000 to 26,000.Over a thirty-year
period the Greater Shankhill and its residents were subjected to numerous
bomb explosions and shootings, the most horrific being what is now known
as the Shankhill Bomb. On the 23rd October 1993, the Shankhill suddenly
became a scene of carnage and despair when a bomb went off in Frizzells
Fish Shop. Ten people were killed including one of the bombers.
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